By: THE EDITORS
Located between Hollywood and West Hollywood and straight from Paris, Mr. T offers elevated street food with a contemporary Parisian flair, a dash of Vietnamese love, and a sprinkle of Mexican magic. Ani Timourian serves her review.
Named after Chef Tsuyoshi Miyazaki – the culinary talent behind Mr. T in Paris (which opened in the booming Marais district some six years ago) – Mr. T in Los Angeles is quickly establishing itself as way more than an exciting foodie destination. It’s a bit of a culinary game changer. First things first: the menu offers options for all of your gastronomic desires. Secondly, the cocktail program is bold and delicious. And then there is the musical ambiance, which left me speechless. “My musical selection was created for the space and is loaded with old school hip-hop music from the ‘80s and ‘90s to reflect street culture,” explains restaurant owner Guillaume Guedj. “It also complements the gastronomic experience that is simultaneously chic and relaxed.” I must concur.
“The Uni,” made with Koshihikari rice, confit egg yolk, and sea urchin, and the “Lamb Kebab,” with spicy aioli, tzatziki on warm pita, the “Chip n Dip,” with artichoke, spinach, truffle cream, and BBQ chips are dreamy. The mixology program is strategically created to pair with any of the items, while stimulating the palate. A standout? The “Temperature Rising,” Mr. T’s spin on a margarita. Made with poblano tequila, lime juice and cucumber syrup, this is a drink you must try.
Guedj, who owned a two-Michelin-star restaurant named Passage 53 in Paris, opened Mr. T with chef Alisa Vannah last summer. Chef Vannah spent her formative years at the Mozza Group and went on to work under Walter Manzke at the French-inspired République. Mr. T’s DNA, according to Vannah, is “inspired by upscale street food with dishes that feature the freshest ingredients and masterful and intricate preparation.” Perhaps Mr. T is a stretch from her starred background; nevertheless, Vannah’s skill elevates everything that comes out of the kitchen.
With high ceilings, indoor and outdoor seating, and a minimal design throughout the setting, it is a fitting background for the culinary wizardry. The pairing of white quartz and concrete accents was inspired by Mexico City, where many custom tables were sourced. Guedj, who designed the space, sought local touches to anchor the look. “We incorporated four custom engravings by French artist Vassili, which mimic the Los Angeles highways.” There is also a collection of vintage and new records lining the walls of the private dining room, which features a record player and a VIP entrance.
So, if you love global flavors or appreciate a seasonal menu, run – don’t walk. You’ll thank me for it.
Mrtrestaurants.com 953 N. Sycamore Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90038
