FORK IN THE ROAD

By: Jen Karetnick

Akira Back’s extraordinary journey.

 

Every summer, Paris is high on many travelers’ bucket lists. The City of Light is an eternal destination, beckoning guests from all over the world to enjoy its fashion, culture, art, and cuisine. But this year, given that the city is hosting the summer Olympic games, Paris is lingering on even more itineraries than usual.

Despite the influx of competitors, coaches, and crowds gathering to watch them, many still yearn to visit Paris for these reasons. Especially for the food. Or, as in the case of chef-restaurateur Akira Back, to create culinary delights.

Originally from South Korea and a former professional snowboarder turned culinary artist, Akira Back’s journey is as diverse as his cuisine. Mentored by sushi master Kenichi Kanada and honing his skills at the International Culinary School, his culinary prowess bloomed into bold creations like the famed Tuna Pizza—a crispy symphony of dough, ponzu aioli, delicate tuna sashimi, and a whisper of truffle oil.

In 2008, Back opened Yellowtail by Akira in the Bellagio Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas. There, he perfected his bold signature dishes of modern Japanese fare, spiced with Korean and other global influences, earning him immediate accolades.

Twelve years later, he had opened over a dozen restaurants, spanning from San Diego to Dubai and Singapore to the Seychelles. His establishment named Dosa in Seoul earned him his first Michelin star in 2017.

Still, no kingdom is complete without a location in Paris. Which is why, in December 2022, Back launched his first European restaurant, Akira Back in the Prince de Galles Paris, a Luxury Collection Hotel. “Paris is one of my favorite cities. I love the architecture, history, and the unrivaled gastronomic culture of the French capital,” Back said at the time. “With this restaurant, I hope to bring a fresh take on things and invite Parisians and the rest of the world to savor and experience a cuisine that shakes up habits.”

Indeed, he did achieve what he set out to do, with a stunning design from London-based agency Blacksheep.

Interior designer Michele Owen showcases both the hotel’s modern Art Deco architecture and Back’s groundbreaking Japanese technique by using dark lacquers and traditional screens in the 90-seat dining room, armchairs and tables upholstered in metallic prints and textures, authentic Art Deco light fixtures—including a showstopper chandelier—and a range of materials including marble, charcoal, and brass in the sushi bar. The result is a lavish, chic space that exudes Paris.

The good news for travelers is that you can find an Akira Back restaurant almost anywhere in the world, including Delray Beach.

The award-winning chef unveiled his first Florida location this past March at The Ray Hotel. In typical Back fashion, the restaurant’s design reflects the locale, with a tropically colored mural behind the sushi bar painted by Back’s mother.

“Delray Beach is a very special culinary and hospitality destination,” explains Back. “I’m happy to be able to have my vision and brand concepts as part of this dynamic and prolific dining scene. Having my namesake restaurant concept in Delray Beach has been an amazing experience. Our restaurant at The Ray Hotel is designed to transport guests on a culinary journey where each dish pays homage to Japanese cuisine and my Korean heritage.”

To that end, the meticulously crafted menu includes the Tuna Pizza and Miso Black Cod along with other signature dishes such as Tuna Tatake (pictured), Truffle Bomb (sea urchin, sweet shrimp, gejang, smoked potato truffle foam, and caviar), and aptly named rolls like the Perfect Storm (shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, salmon belly aburi, and chipotle mayo). Robata items such as the scallop on the half shell with kimchi, bacon, and gochujang butter, and main courses like the 48-hour Wagyu short ribs exhibit his flair for combining Japanese and Korean techniques and ingredients.

If Paris—or anywhere else—is out of reach this year, no worries. Akira Back is officially in our very own backyard.

 

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